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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.